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Lesson on Determining the Quality of Chocolate

If you have followed this blog, you will know that I absolutely love chocolate. Today is an exciting day for me at Rouxbe, as we released the first lesson on CHOCOLATE in the Cooking School.

Amano Artisan Chocolate

Many people don't even know where chocolate comes from and the amount of careful work it takes to it get from bean to bar. What is really sad, is that a lot of people don't know what quality chocolate even is...they are used to mass-produced chocolate made from low-grade cocoa beans which is also loaded with artificial ingredients. Once you watch the lesson on the Basics of Quality Chocolate, you'll be able to pick up a package and understand what a label really means.  

If you aren't already a Rouxbe member, make sure to sign up for your 30-day free trial.

Happy Chocolate Eating!

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Dove Chocolate

Recently, I was approached by Matchstick, a word-of-mouth marketing agency who is working on behalf of Dove chocolate to launch their all-new line of chocolate. I was sent a package of 4 varieties: 71% cocoa, Dark, Dusk and Milk and was encouraged to share the sample packs with my chocoholic family and friends. Not so hard to give out free chocolate.

Dove Chocolate

When asked to participate, I wasn't sure what kind of package to expect. I had asked what percentage of cocoa was in the new line of chocolate and the person on the phone didn't seem to know. No problem, but when I received the package, I was a bit disappointed that out of all the samples, there was only one bar of 71%. It was hardly enough to conduct a proper survey with such a small sample. However, I had people sample them from the lightest to the darkest: milk, dusk, dark, and a tiny nibble of the 71%. I also did not tell them what it was for. Just that I wanted their honest feedback on the chocolate they were about to eat. 

I recorded people's comments as they sampled each one. Here is a compiled list of results:

Milk Chocolate (first in line to taste)
- didn't taste it until finished eating, then it had a bite in the back of the throat
- cheap milk chocolate bar, unnatural, trying to be fancy, thick
- too sweet, sugary
- isn't Dove a brand of soap? don't usually buy milk chocolate, it tastes like it's for kids
- tiring in back of throat
- smooth texture, I like milk/white chocolate though, wouldn't buy but would eat if given
- weird, doesn't melt, pasty and chewy, not natural, has a caramel flavor
- can taste chocolate, not very strong, tastes like caramel, soft, smooth, creamy
- ok texture, dry flavor, lower quality than used to
- ok flavor, good for smores

Dusk (second in line to taste)
- more flavor, chewier, creamier, very sweet on after taste - really sweet actually
- too sweet, too thick, liked this one better though
- better but still too sweet
- too sweet still, couldn't eat a whole chocolate bar of this
- less creamy, don't like the flavor
- just average
- liked it better than milk, layers of flavor, heavier texture, couldn't eat a whole lot
- pasty, same texture, seemed saltier, better flavor
- better than the milk chocolate
- stronger flavor, chewy
- ok flavor, good for a treat on its own
- sticks to my teeth

Dark (third in line to taste)
- less bitter, smoother, less after taste
- trying to be high end but not
- like this one better than dusk at first, but weird aftertaste, less waxy
- like better but weird aftertaste, less sweet up front, not as creamy, waxy coating in mouth
- liked the aftertaste, little bit bitter, better texture, not as thick aftertaste, bittersweet
- not as bitter
- bitter, not as much flavor as other dark chocolates
- let down, yucky aftertaste, makes me like dusk better
- sweeter caramel flavor, moister, would buy
- too strong, hits back of throat instead of taste buds, bitter
- had a squishy, oily texture that didn't do it for me
- this one is the most disturbing

71% (fourth in line to taste)
- bitter, chalky, longer after taste
- I'm used to flavor left behind from chocolate, this one was bitter and lingered, more cocoa taste but crumbly
- horrible, not much taste
- much waxier, bitter, not much flavor
- very different, bitter aftertaste, creamy but no flavor
- same flavor, slightly different consistency, doesn't feel as mushy, same bitterness, not very chocolaty
- seems synthetic
- tastes like lard (not like chocolate)
- is this the same one as before? bitter, not as sweet
- I prefer the texture of dark but found the flavor elusive, not as robust, I had to move it around and think about it to find the flavor

Overall Comments:
- wouldn't buy; usually buys Lindt, Denman Island Dark Chocolate, quality chocolate from Spain
- wouldn't buy, seems cheap/fake
- educated about cocoa content, so I wouldn't buy
- wouldn't buy as a gift and won't take extra samples to eat
- wouldn't buy based on no cocoa content - it's the first thing I look at on the list of ingredients
- why do I only get one small piece of 71%? (because there was only 1 bar in the whole lot)
- none of them melt in your mouth - wouldn't buy
- none really seem like the kind of thing we'd normally have in the house

What I found interesting, is that most people, even if they aren't foodies or pastry connoisseurs, know about cocoa content. The general public is more aware of what quality chocolate consists of and I think, unfortunately, Dove fell short on this one. Overall, people seemed to like Dusk the best, but weren't racing out to buy it.

Personally, I'm a huge fan of quality, dark chocolate, so I wouldn't purchase the milk, dusk or dark (especially because no cocoa content is listed). For me, there are many superior chocolates out there which contain 71% cocoa mass. I feel bad that the reviews aren't the greatest, but I was asked to provide honest feedback. Not-so-great chocolate makes me sad.

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How to Make Candied Almonds

For my last blog post of 2007, I want to share an interesting technique I learned back in Maryland. These candied almonds are completely addictive - you can't stop at just one. They slowly toast as the sugar caramelizes, and once hard, they clang together like tiny pieces of glass. Candied almonds are the extent of my contribution to the holiday goodies this year. And if I would have had the time, these go over the top when individually dipped in chocolate.

This technique is one of my favorites. After everything you learn about working with sugar and do everything to avoid its crystallization, you now go against the grain. Here you want to force crystallization, a technique called sablage (which literally translates to gritting from French).

10 ounces whole blanched almonds
4 ounces sugar
2 ounces water

Blanched almonds can be very expensive, so blanch your own. Simply place the skin-on, whole almonds into a bowl and cover with boiling water. Let sit for one minute, then drain and rinse with cold water. You'll be able to easily pop the nut out of its skin. Let the almonds dry completely overnight.

Blanched Almonds

Preheat your oven to the lowest setting. Set up a silpat or sheet of parchment paper, along with a bit of vegetable oil and two forks. Place the nuts onto a baking sheet and into the oven - just enough to take any chill out of them. Do not toast. Place a large, stainless-steel fry pan over medium-high heat and cook the sugar and water to softball stage. Softball stage means cooking sugar to approximately 235°F to 240°F (118°C-120°C). You can use a candy thermometer to test the temperature. Be careful, as this sugar is extremely hot and can badly burn you.

Cooking Sugar to Softball Stage

Once the sugar has reached the proper temperature, add the almonds and stir. Turn the heat to medium-low. At first, they will look glossy.

Candying Almonds

As you continually stir, the sugar will turn milky and start to crystallize. This is called sablage and here you can see the almonds look sandy.

Candying Almonds_Sablage Technique

Continue to cook the almonds. Slowly, but surely, the sugar will start to melt again. The almonds will gradually toast from the heat of the pan, and the sugar will start to caramelize.

Candying Almonds_Sablage Technique  Candying Almonds_Sablage Technique

Be careful not to overtoast the nuts or burn the sugar.

Candying Almonds_Sablage Technique

As soon as all of the sugar has melted and caramelized, pour the nuts directly onto the silpat and immediately pull apart using oiled forks. They will be extremely hot. If you can't separate them quickly enough, you can also flatten them out and, once cool, just tap the ones that are glued together and they will fall apart.

Pulling Apart Hot Candied Almonds

Let cool completely before transferring to a serving bowl. I candied 4 kilos of almonds in the last 2 weeks, so make lots. These make a great snack at any party. They are even a nice addition to cheese trays. Click here for more pictures.

Candied Almonds

Finally, I hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas, and here's wishing you a spectacular new year!

 

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Chocolate Series | Piping Chocolate Decorations

Once you know how to fold a paper cone, piping decorations using chocolate can be a lot of fun. Half fill the paper cone with tempered chocolate and snip the tip off with scissors. Snip less of the tip off to achieve a finer thread/stream of chocolate, or more to obtain a thicker one. It is best to snip off a little at a time until you obtain the result you want.

Secure a large piece of clean parchment to a working surface by weighing the corners down so it doesn't slip around. Begin to pipe, keeping the top part of the paper cone folded at all times so that the chocolate doesn't ooze out of it. Apply even pressure, while bearing in mind that the heat from your hands could throw the chocolate out of the tempered range. This is one of the reasons that it is best to work with small amounts at a time, ensuring you only handle it for short periods.

Fine piping takes lots of practice. Here I am messing around to show that anything can be done. These aren't the fanciest decorations, but once set, these can be stood upon or stacked on any kind of dessert to give an added touch.

Piping Chocolate Decorations

Here is a close-up to show that well-tempered chocolate does contract as it sets. The edges of the decoration actually lift off of the paper. If you want to prevent a decoration from curling, you will need to place something of a suitable and even weight on top of it. Don't do this until the chocolate has set though, or you will mush your design. Once set, cover it with a piece of parchment, and apply a light weight on top overnight. Chocolate can take up to 24 hours to fully set/contract, so don't be tempted to take the weight off early. This applies to all things chocolate that you want to keep flat.

Piping Chocolate Decorations (Chocolate Contracts As It Sets)

Obviously, the finer the piping, the more fragile the decorations will be. Once the paper cone is empty of chocolate, dispose of it. It cannot be re-used.

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Chocolate Series | How to Dip Chocolates by Hand

Once you get the hang of tempering chocolate, the world is your oyster, in terms of design and decoration. Shapes can be formed, decorations can be piped, and all sorts of confections can be dipped. In a previous post on simple ganache, truffles were rolled in cocoa powder to finish them. To finish truffles the professional way, they need to be coated with a thin layer of tempered chocolate. This protects the center, giving products a longer shelf life, and also makes them look pretty.

Dark Chocolate Truffles Topped With Cocoa Nibs

Equipment Needed:
  • kitchen towel
  • bowl of tempered chocolate
  • appropriate dipping forks
  • parchment paper
  • a paper weight (to prevent the parchment from moving)
  • desired topping(s)
  • room temperature truffles or confections

Set Up for Dipping Chocolates

Directions:

1. To begin, place your bowl of tempered chocolate onto a towel so it is resting at an angle, with the chocolate reaching the rim of the bowl, as shown below.

Tempered Chocolate Set Up

This angle makes it easier to dip, if you don't have a filled-to-the-brim bowl of chocolate.

2. Toss a truffle into the tempered chocolate and submerge with your dipping tool. For round truffles, use the circular dipping tool. Scoop up the truffle from underneath and begin to bounce up and down, using the viscosity of the tempered chocolate, to pull off the excess from truffle. It will help to just touch the surface of the chocolate on the downward motion. Click on the picture to see more detailed notes.

How to Dip Truffles

3. Before moving over to the parchment paper, catch a bit of the drip on the edge of the bowl that may remain underneath the truffle (this avoids dripping everywhere). Move over to the parchment, hold your hand still, and turn directly over in a quick and steady motion. The truffle should easily release from the dipping tool. If you take too long, the truffle may stick to the tool. Quickly re-dip before the chocolate sets.

Dipping Truffles

4. Once you have placed the truffle on the parchment paper, be careful to not move it. Sprinkle on a topping, if desired, while the surface is still wet. This will make the topping adhere to the truffle. Alternatively, you can line a sheet with a smooth layer of your chosen topping and rest the dipped truffle directly onto the layer of topping. Let set and then remove the truffles. This is a faster method and will give you an even coating of topping on the top of your truffles.

Here I have sprinkled the surface with raw cacao nibs. To obtain a shiny surface on raw cacao nibs, place them on a tray, in a very low oven for 30 seconds at a time. You do not want to heat them or burn them. Just stir them around and take them out as soon as they have a nice, dark sheen.

Dark Chocolate Truffle Topped With Cocoa Nibs

5. If you discover any bubbles, you can gently poke them before the chocolate sets. Bubbles occur when the tempered chocolate is too cold/thick, or you may have incorporated too much air during the tempering process. Warm the chocolate to the proper range and continue. While dipping, remember to keep the chocolate at the proper working temperature, by occasionally placing it over the bain marie. Stir often and scrape down the sides of the bowl, to keep the temperature of the entire mass consistent throughout. Click on the picture to see more detailed notes.

Troubleshooting Bubbles
Dipping Chocolates - Troubleshooting Bubbles

6. The goal is to have a very thin and even layer of chocolate on the truffle, with a minimal "foot". A foot is the base/underside of the truffle. You don't want globs of chocolate on the bottom, as it doesn't look as refined. If you wind up with a mess, pick the chocolate up quickly and re-dip it before it sets. Click on the picture to see more detailed notes.

Poorly Dipped Truffle
Poorly Dipped Truffle

Happy dipping! More chocolate work to come...

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I am a graduate of the full-time Culinary and Pastry program at the Northwest Culinary Academy of Vancouver and studied at L'Academie de Cuisine in Maryland, USA. Here, I'll share my experiences in the food industry. I currently work at Rouxbe - The world's leading online cooking school.

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