Making Doughnuts and Fondant

Today in class we made a variety of doughnuts. Yeast doughnuts, French doughnuts, and Cake-type doughnuts. I'm not a huge fan of doughnuts but they were fun to make and light to eat - not nearly as greasy as the ones you often find at the store.

Tagged as: [ doughnuts fondant pastry sugar ]

A Sticky Dough is a Happy Dough

I like the fact that in class we are not using Kitchen Aids for the mixing and kneading of doughs. By doing everything by hand, we are learning to identify when a dough has been kneaded enough just by feeling it. When people move on to using machines in big production kitchens to make large quantities, they will be able to look and touch the product to determine when it is done. What has amazed me most during this past week of bread-making is that most of the doughs that we have kneaded by hand are extremely sticky initially but then come together as they are kneaded more. Even the end result is something stickier than I'm used to. The home baker will undoubtedly feel the urge to add additional flour at the onset to make the dough more manageable to knead?but this is actually the worst thing they could do.

There is a lot of science behind bread making and I have a greater appreciation for the artisan baker. Formulas were created to calculate the Desired Dough Temperature (DDT). This is the precise temperature that dough should be at after kneading and before resting. It is not something that is found in recipes on the web or in many cookbooks but rewards professionals with excellent results. Accurate gluten development, hydration, fermentation, and proofing times have to be understood to create an optimal product.

For most lean doughs (ones that have very little or no fat in them), the DDT is between 75°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C). For enriched doughs (ones that have more butter, milk, eggs, etc.), the DDT is slightly higher to keep the fats soft while kneading.

So how do you find a DDT? The only temperature you can control in a recipe is the temperature of the water that you are adding. To find the DDT for a dough, you have to calculate the sum temperatures of certain factors: room temperature, flour temperature, mixer friction (the heat generated by mixing/kneading)¹, and pre-dough (sour dough, etc.). If your recipe includes 3 of the aforementioned factors, you multiply the desired dough temperature by 3. If there are 4 factors, multiply by 4 and so on. Once you have multiplied the factors, you subtract the sum temperature of the room, flour, mixer friction, pre-dough, etc. The value left is the temperature that your water should be at when adding it to your recipe.

It is quite amazing that when you follow these calculations, and after kneading for the appropriate amount of time, that the DDT will be spot-on. The benefit of having a DDT is that the yeast will be most active during this resting period and will produce gases which will be trapped between the network of gluten strands, creating a beautiful rise in the oven.

To calculate DDT (example):


What is also interesting to me is that you can take roughly the same ingredients (flour, yeast, water, salt, butter) and form such incredibly different products from the same things just by altering the amounts, the proofing time, the baking technique, etc. Click here for more pictures of the finished products.


¹ To calculate mixer friction multiply the total kneading time by 2 (when kneading by hand). Fahrenheit should be used when calculating DDT.

Tagged as: [ baking bread ddt dough gluten kneading temperature tips ]

39 Recipes in 10 Days

Over the past 10 days in the Pastry program at NWCAV, we have already made 39 different recipes. Flaky and sweet doughs were turned into beautiful pies and tarts. Strudels, crepes, and choux paste were stuffed with a variety of goodies. Different laminated doughs created croissants, Danish, palmiers, and cinnamon straws (among many other things).

I learned a new French technique to make puff pastry. It is called an "inverted" method where the butter remains on the outside of the dough as you complete a series of turns. There are many advantages to using the French inverted method. It creates 145 layers of fat and 144 layers of dough (versus the traditional German method which creates 145 layers of dough and 144 layers of fat)–giving the French method one extra layer of fat. What are the benefits of having the butter on the outside layer? It makes it easier to roll (even though the initial thought is that it would be harder), gives it better color and rise, and there is less of a chance that your dough will dry out as the fat layer protects it.

We have also made quick breads and now we are beginning a 7-day series on bread. The pace of the course is definitely different from culinary. In pastry, even though you may have the same number of tasks to complete it is different in the sense that it all doesn't have to come together at the same moment (i.e., when you go to plate something). At least not yet! All doughs need time to rest and proof. Other things need to be chilled or frozen before you can continue. Multi-tasking definitely comes into play here but we are easing into the course. There is a tonne to learn. Pastry is very precise and scientific and patience is an absolute must.

Tagged as: [ choux dough laminated nwcav pastry pie puff tart ]

Things I DO Want to Know

The more I learn about where our food comes from, how it is genetically modified and unnatural, the more perplexed I become as a shopper. Certified organic and local products are making their appearances in my kitchen more and more. I am still highly uneducated on the topic but with little changes here and there I think some progress is being made (albeit slowly). I read an article today in the New York Times called "Things You Don’t Know, Can’t Know and Don’t Want to Know". I actually DO want to know these things. The more the word is spread about how foods are being altered and what is actually in some products, the more people can make informed choices.

Tagged as: [ food gmo organic tips ]

Critique Your Process First, Before Critiquing Your Food

Perhaps I'm being a bit dramatic but I've had two disasters in the kitchen recently and unfortunately both of them occurred when I was cooking for people that are really close to me. It reminded me of something Chef Tony said last term, which was "critique your process first, before critiquing your food".

The first meal left me shaking my head in a daze and disbelief that I had actually completed the culinary term. The second wasn't as bad, however, I felt that it didn't meet my standards. I know I'm often hard on myself but that first meal was dreadful. The great thing about serving a gawd awful dish to your family is that they don't let you forget it.

When my brother and mom were visiting, late in the day, we decided to bbq some rib eye steaks. I don't know what I was thinking when I purchased some "naturally grass fed rib eye" from the butcher. There was hardly any marbling or fat in them and I just didn't clue in at the time that they wouldn't be as delicious as the previous fatty rib eye we had bought. I also prepared a panzanella salad and some bbq'd corn on the cob. The panzanella was missing its zing and the corn was, well...burnt. I couldn't believe how everything had gone wrong. At least my brother commented that he liked the toasted bread in the salad. Too funny.

That brought me back to when I was about 12 years old and my mom made my brother and me stuffed green peppers for dinner. My brother and I always enjoyed what mom served but we were in shock and awe when those shriveled green things arrived at the table. We politely started to eat and my brother and I quickly glanced at each other and began to snicker. It was the only time that my mom had really done a number and made something that bland and that gross! My family has always respected food but that was the first (and last) time that we actually played with our food, making it even more inedible. To this day, we haven't let mom forget and we all get a chuckle.
 

The other night, my dear friend Wendy, visited. Thinking I would get a head start on the week, I was busy preparing a few dishes that would make life a bit more convenient with our hectic schedules. I think I put too much on my plate. Before I knew it she arrived at 4:30 and I hadn't started dinner. I planned to make a heart-of-palm risotto with some rib eye and a salad to start. Marcelo and I had eaten heart-of-palm risotto in Brazil at a beautiful seaside resort town called Buzios. It was absolutely delicious and I had replicated it once since we have been home, so, I thought I'd do it again. It was ok but my timing was off and that damn rib eye (the good marbled one) was a disaster too. It was tough and just boring. I felt a little sad because I want to be able to show my family and close friends my honed skills.

Anyway, I'm over it now. I know that I'll still hear about that rib eye from my brother 20 years down the road. That night that I made it, I was the first one to bed and apparently he asked my husband and mom if they wanted to order pizza when I was out of the room. They all laughed, kiddingly. Sniff sniff :(

So what did I learn? If I go back to what Chef Tony said, I think that my focus stunk on both occasions. The first meal was thrown together at the last minute – with not a lot of planning – and I'm a planner. On the second meal, I put too much on my plate that day and tried to get too many things accomplished and the snowball effect took over. Cooking and entertaining at the same time doesn't always work. In any event, I couldn't save either of the dishes. My process wasn't very well thought out and my end result suffered dearly. So the next time something doesn't work out for you, examine the steps that you took and you are bound to learn a thing or two.


We all have our bad days in the kitchen.

Tagged as: [ critique culinary food processes tips ]

Moussaka

I am very fond of cooler weather and Fall. It signals that it is time to pull out fuzzy sweaters, leave a window cracked open at night, and snuggle up under fluffy warm duvets. I also find that I want to be glued to the kitchen where I love to make heartier things to eat. Tonight I made moussaka. The warm cinnamon and the creamy béchamel makes this a rich dish. I have adapted this recipe from quite a few that I have tried. It takes a while to prepare but it is totally worth it.

Eggplant
3     lbs.	eggplant
6     tbsp.	extra virgin olive oil
1     tbsp.	kosher salt
1/2  tsp.	sea salt
Meat Sauce
2     tbsp.	extra virgin olive oil
1	large onion, diced
5	cloves garlic, minced
1     lb.	lean ground beef
1	cinnamon stick, broken
1.5  tsp.	dried oregano
1     tsp.	allspice
1/4  tsp.	nutmeg
1     tsp.	sea salt
1/2  tsp.	pepper, freshly ground
1	bay leaf
15   oz.	canned whole tomatoes
3     tbsp.	tomato paste
Béchamel
6     tbsp.	unsalted butter
6     tbsp.	all-purpose flour
3     cups	whole milk
1/4  tsp.	nutmeg
1     tsp.	sea salt
1	large egg
2	large egg yolks
Other
2     tsp.	extra virgin olive oil
1/4  cup	fine bread crumbs
1/4  cup	parmesan cheese, grated

Preheat oven to 450ºF. Prepare the eggplant. Wash and slice it into 1/2-inch rounds. Place on a cooling rack and sprinkle both sides with kosher salt. Let sit for 20 minutes. While you are waiting, begin preparing the sauce. In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tbsp. olive oil over medium-low heat. Gently cook onions until translucent and start to turn golden, about 8-10 minutes. Add minced garlic and cook for an additional minute before adding ground beef. Increase heat to medium-high, add cinnamon through pepper and add cook until beef is done. Add tomatoes (crush up a bit with the juice), tomato paste, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low and simmer for approximately 45 minutes to an hour. Adjust seasonings to taste.

Rinse the eggplant under cold water and dry well with paper towels. Divide the olive oil and spread onto two baking sheets. Coat each piece of eggplant with olive oil and lay flat. Sprinkle with sea salt. Bake in oven for approximately 25 minutes, flipping half way through. Turn on broiler and broil for an additional 4 to 5 minutes per side to brown. Remove from oven and set aside on cooling rack. Reduce oven to 350ºF.

Make a béchamel sauce by melting the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk to form a smooth paste. Add milk, nutmeg, and salt and whisk continuously to avoid lumping. Cook until the mixture boils and whisk for another 2 to 4 minutes until it thickens. Remove from heat and transfer to an ice bath to cool. Once cooled, whisk in egg and yolks to form a smooth custard. Set aside.

Grease a 9 x 13 baking dish with the 2 tsp. of extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the bottom of the baking dish and fan the eggplant to form a single layer. Place half of the meat sauce on top of the eggplant and smooth out with an offset spatula. Place another layer of eggplant and then rest of the meat sauce. Drizzle the béchamel over the entire surface and then top with grated parmesan. Bake for 45 minutes until golden brown (you can turn on the broiler for the last few minutes to brown further if desired). Let rest on a cooling rack for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

Makes 6-8 portions.

Tagged as: [ bechamel cuisine greek moussaka recipes ]

Paris Brests

Tagged as: [ brests chantilly choux creme nwcav paris pastry patissiere ]

An Apple a Day...

It is interesting to see recipes come together and I sometimes think that good baking or cooking can easily be taken for granted. In order to get a wonderful end result, time, effort, and care needs to be put into every step. For example, doughs need to be made the day prior to allow them to rest before rolling out. Fillings and toppings need to be prepared and perhaps a glaze needs to be applied to the product at the end. Each step needs special attention and if short cuts are taken, the end result will be affected.

We finished our Apple Pie, French Apple Tart, and Austrian Apple Strudel.  We definitely fulfilled our "apple a day" quota today!

Tagged as: [ apples nwcav pastry strudel tart ]

How to Make Your Own Vanilla Essence

One of the things that I love about taking a full-time pastry course is you obviously get an inside look at a variety of tips and tricks. I was reminded that you can make your own vanilla essence from used vanilla beans. Once you cook with vanilla beans, don't throw them out. There is a tonne of flavor left in the beans. Rinse the beans gently with water and dry for a few days. Place them into a bottle of vodka. Continue to add used, dried vanilla beans to the vodka and let them infuse for approximately 3 months. You will essentially wind up with a vanilla essence that can be used in any of your recipes and it will keep forever. Once you're out of vanilla essence, you can add vodka to the bottle again. Only refill once using the same vanilla beans (eventually the flavor from the beans completely wears off).

Tagged as: [ basics essence howto tips vanilla ]

The Official Weigh-In

Tomorrow I begin the full-time pastry class at NWCAV. After having a month off between courses and doing nothing but cooking, entertaining, and enjoying the company of many visitors, it is time to get back to work–fun work I will happily admit!

After being exposed to the multitude of batters, doughs, and desserts over the next 15 weeks, I will be interested to see if I gain any weight during the program. I am quite conscious about what I eat but confess that I am weak when it comes to freshly baked breads, croissants, and sweets. Although I could already stand to lose a tad, I am weighing in at 128 pounds. What I do have going for me is that I no longer have the dreaded 2.5 hour Maryland-DC commute every day. I am fortunate enough to be able to walk and ride my bike everywhere in Vancouver and I rarely get into the car anymore.


But if I do wind up putting on a few extra pounds, I think I can safely declare that I will be a happy and literally a sweeter person! ;)

Tagged as: [ nwcav pastry weight ]

Sumptuous Meals | Kampa Park Restaurants - Prague, Czech Republic

In 2004, Marcelo and I spent 10 days in what turned out to be one of my most favorite cities in the world. Prague is a stunning city in every sense. We wandered through cobblestone streets for hours on end and gazed at ancient buildings and all of the art that poured out of every nook and cranny. We ate delicious meals every day and came across the mouth-watering, celebrity frequented, "Kampa Group Restaurants" owned by Nils Jebens.

In 1994, Nils opened the first of his restaurants on the Malá Strana riverfront in Prague.  During communism the Czechs were not allowed to travel freely and discover unique ingredients beyond the Iron Curtain. Variety lacked and the cuisine suffered. To fill the void, Norwegian-born Nils set out to revolutionize and introduce fine dining in Prague. The first restaurant he opened, Kampa Park, is situated right on the water beside the magnificent Charles Bridge.

Once Marcelo and I discovered these gems, we quickly planned to fit in every remaining meal at the Kampa restaurants. I still remember the delectable wild mushroom papardelle at Square. The asparagus risotto was also gorgeous and tasted just like freshly picked asparagus. And the coffee was to die for! I often wish I had a bottomless pit of a stomach where I could just eat and eat and eat and never get full or gain weight. Square was an elegant but casual restaurant that paid attention to detail, provided snappy service, and presented its food beautifully. At Bazaar, now called Cowboys, Marcelo ordered an incredible sole dish bathed in the most delicious butter sauce. And at Hergetova Cihelna the view of the Charles Bridge was remarkable as was the food.

On the last night, I purchased their "Park Life - Kampa Park Cookbook". It explains the journey of opening the different restaurants and the destruction that they had to deal with when the "Thousand Year Flood" of 2002 ruined Hergetova Cihelna. After six months of renovations, it re-opened to be better than ever. This guy has done admirable work and gives entrepreneurs something to aspire to. The cookbook contains amazing recipes and he advises novices to refrain from getting ahead of themselves. He stresses mise-en-place (have all ingredients in order before executing a dish) and after testing the recipes a few times to send Kampa an invitation for dinner. I'm not at that stage yet but one day I may extend the invitation ;)

Every now and then I am brave enough to pick up his book and give one of the recipes a try. If you are ever in Prague, make sure you go to at least one of his well-priced restaurants. I guarantee that you'll be hooked! And if you can't make it there just yet, surely you will find some inspiration from the menus on his website.

Click here for more pictures from Prague.

Tagged as: [ czechrepublic kampapark prague restaurants travel ]